Leek and Wobbly Bottom Goats’ Cheese Tart
When your locally produced goats’ cheese is made at Wobbly Bottom Farm and shares that name, you know you have to buy it. (It’s not just me, is it???) Fortunately it’s also a lovely cheese. Crumbly. Sharp. Smooth.
And perfect with leeks. Who’d have thought we’d have been ending October with lunch in the garden? And it was half-term, too. That never happens! Apparently, it was as warm as in Rome and we’ve not seen temperatures like that this late in October since 1968. (Don’t you think that first day ‘when records began’ must have been exciting – ‘warmest, coldest, wettest, driest … since records began’.) It’s all changed now, of course …
Anchor Butter is on special offer, leeks abound, Wobbly Bottom Goats’ Cheese was at the farmers’ market and cream is always a good idea. (Isn’t it?) I came upon this recipe in Xanthe Clay’s ‘The Contented Cook’ and have made it so many times since. It’s a lovely combination and satisfyingly rich without being heavy. Like the Salmon and Watercress Quiche with Pink Peppercorns, it’s one I tend to leave alone. If it isn’t broken, why would you …?
It’s egg yolk heavy – the recipe calls for 8 eggs in total, so it’s one for when you’ve got plans for lots of egg whites. Mind, they freeze beautifully – and there are always meringues in all incarnations plus I have a lovely ‘almond-y’ recipe which needs them …
Fresh thyme goes in the pastry. Incorporating anything in my pastry makes me smile. Despite having coveted an aga cooker for years, the reality of owning one was a bit intimidating. All those ovens, no temperature dials … So I took myself off to one of Sarah Whitaker’s cookery demonstrations and, apart from de-mystifying the 80/20 cooking method, she said she liked to put something in her pastry so everyone knew it was home-made …!
Funny, yes? And, oh-so-true.
You need a big handful. Run your thumb and forefinger along the length of the stalk and you’ll have a pile of thyme leaves. Put those in the bowl of your processor.
Add the flour and fridge cold butter. Pulse until it looks like breadcrumbs.
Then add two beaten egg yolks and pulse again. You will probably need part or all of one of the reserved egg whites. Pulse again. Tip out the contents of your processor and bring together into a flattened ball.
Wrap in cling film and put it, and the flan tin, into the fridge to chill for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, slice the leeks. 5mm slices.
Let them sit in clean water, giving them an initial swish around in the water.
Time for a cup of tea.
When the pastry has chilled, roll out between two sheets of cling film.
Line your tart tin and return to the fridge to chill.
Drain the soaking leeks and give them a whizz in a salad spinner.
Melt the butter in a sauté pan.
Soften the leeks. Take your time, make sure you cook until the liquid evaporates. Then set to one side to cool.
In a conventional cooker you will need to ‘blind’ bake.
Separate six eggs. You need the yolks.
Mix the yolks with the cream. Then add the cooled leeks and seasoning.
Pour into your pastry case and spread the leeks equally.
Scatter over your goats’ cheese.
Bake for 30-40 minutes. In my aga I cook for 20 minutes on the floor of the Roasting Oven and transfer to the Simmering Oven for an additional 15 minutes. Allow it to rest for a few minutes before removing from the tart tin.
Slice a cake lifter or larger quiche tin base beneath the tart and transfer to your serving plate.
Eat.
Leek and Wobbly Bottom Goats’ Cheese Tart – Serves 8
For the Pastry:
- 200g flour
- 100g butter
- leaves from a large handful of fresh thyme sprigs
- 2 eggs, separated
- Pinch of salt
For the Filling:
- 6 medium leeks, cut into slices 5mm thick
- 60g butter
- 425ml double cream
- 6 egg yolks
- 200g goats’ cheese
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the flour, butter, thyme leaves and salt into a food processor and pulse until blended. Add the egg yolks and pulse again, until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. You’ll probably need part or all of one of the reserved egg whites. Blitz again. Bring the dough together, wrap in cling film and chill for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200ºC/Gas Mark 6/400ºF.
Roll out the pastry between sheets of cling film and line a 30cm flan tin. Reserve the scraps. Chill again.
Prick the base and bake ‘blind’ for 15 minutes. Remove the beans. If you have any cracks, patch with the reserved pastry scraps and brush with egg white. Return to the oven for 5 minutes. You are looking for the pastry case to be cooked through and a gentle brown in colour.
Lower the egg temperature to 180ºC/Gas Mark 4/350ºF.
Slice the leek into 5mm rings and soak for about 30 minutes in a bowl of cold water. Swish it about to dislodge any dirt. Drain and dry in a salad spinner.
Melt the butter in a large frying pan, add the leeks and cook until soft. There will be a fair amount of liquid, cook until it has all evaporated, then allow to cool.
Whisk together the egg yolks, cream, salt and freshly ground black pepper, then add the leeks.
Pour into your cooked pastry case, taking care to spread the leeks evenly across the base. Add the goats cheese.
Bake for 25 minutes, until the tart is golden but still maintaining a slight wobble. It will firm up as it cools.
(Aga: there’s no need to bake ‘blind’. Cook on the floor of the Roasting Oven until the pastry is cooked and transfer to the Simmering Oven until the tart has that lovely ‘wobble’.)
Best served warm or at room temperature.
Eat.