Home-made mayonnaise is another of those life enhancing things I prefer not to live without. It tastes so much better than anything you can buy, but this recipe comes with a warning. Much like Hollandaise Sauce, making it means you can no longer hide from yourself the amount of oil that goes into it. That’s all to the good, really. Just knowing it’s ‘naughty’ only adds to the deliciousness.
Since it contains raw egg, UK guidelines recommend ‘at risk’ people use pasteurised eggs to avoid the possibility of salmonella poisoning. The at risk groups are the very young, the elderly, pregnant women and anyone who is already unwell. If you decide to take the risk, you can minimise it by buying eggs from a reputable source, rinsing the shells before you crack them (UK eggs are sold unwashed by law) and washing your hands once you’ve finished handling them.
Considering we are a ‘living with cancer family’ it may surprise you to know we do take the risk. Life is for living, after all. Personally, I wouldn’t use it in a sandwich which was going to sit in a hot car for a few hours, but it keeps perfectly well in the fridge for 5 days or so and I’m very fussy about the eggs I use.
The choice of oil makes a difference to the taste of your mayonnaise and you can play about with it. A mix of extra virgin olive oil or cold-pressed rapeseed oil and a lighter sunflower or groundnut oil makes the mayonnaise I prefer. All olive oil mayonnaise can taste bitter. I tend to use a ratio of 2 parts rapeseed oil and 6 parts sunflower, but a 1:7 might be better with some olive oils.
One glance at the side of a jar of commercially produced mayonnaise and you’ll wonder why they feel the need to add colouring and fructose syrup. The ingredients list is short – and, if you’re comfortable using fluid ounces, it’s super easy to remember. 2 eggs for every 8 fl oz of oil. In metric it’s a less memorable 225ml of oil.
A freestanding mixer takes the physical effort out of it and it’s how I make mine. Making it by hand does push the boundaries of my foodie mantra ‘if I’m not prepared to make it, I’m not allowed to eat it’, but it’s entirely possible. If you’re making this by hand, put a damp j-cloth or tea towel beneath your bowl to keep it steady. You need one hand to whisk and the other to drip the oil.
Have everything at room temperature. Mayonnaise is an emulsified sauce and fridge cold eggs increases the risk of everything curdling.
Place the egg yolks in a bowl, together with a dollop of Dijon mustard and a pinch of salt. I add my ‘acid’ now and it usually takes the form of white wine vinegar. Lemon juice is a nice alternative, particularly if you’re intending to serve your mayonnaise with fish.
Give everything a mix together.
I’d no hands left for this bit – but’s it’s time to set the whisk going and gently drop in the oil. Set the mixer going and start with the sunflower oil. Start slowly and whisk well between each addition. If the sauce is struggling to absorb the oil, slow down. After the first 2 fl oz of oil, mine looked like this.
And, after 4 fl oz.
6 fl oz – it’s getting thicker and you can add the oil more quickly.
The final 2 fl oz. In my case, the rapeseed oil.
Beat until it’s smooth and shiny. And, that’s it. Check for seasoning, add a little pepper if you like. A dessertspoon of boiling water stabilises the mayonnaise and thins it down slightly. Some times I do, and some times I don’t. If you fancy making a saffron infused mayonnaise that’s the way to do it. Add the stamens to the boiling water and mix through your mayonnaise. It has a fabulous colour.
It won’t split if you begin with room temperature ingredients and don’t rush adding the oil .. but …
If you run into difficulties there are things you can do.
Place an egg yolk in a clean bowl and gradually whisk in the split mayonnaise. Or, add a dessertspoon of boiling water to a clean bowl and whisk in the split mayonnaise. Both will work to stabilise your mayonnaise, although the extra egg yolk adds richness.
It can be a base for all kinds of wonderful things – here I chopped a couple of tablespoons of dill and stirred it through to serve alongside some smoked trout ..
I also made a basil mayonnaise, another flavoured with tomato and basil. A few tablespoons went to make a celeriac remoulade which I love with ham .. and prawns. Pâte, too …
.. but it’s lovely as it is.
Eat.
Home-Made Mayonnaise
Makes 350ml/12 fl oz
2 organic, free range egg yolks
¼ teaspoon of fine salt
½ teaspoon of Dijon mustard
1 dessertspoon of white wine vinegar (or lemon juice)
225ml/8 fl oz oil (use a ratio of 6 parts light oil like groundnut or sunflower:2 parts rapeseed or olive oil)
Have everything at room temperature.
Place the egg yolks, the salt, Dijon mustard and white wine vinegar in a bowl. Whisk together, then s-l-o-w-l-y add the oil, starting with the light oil and finishing with the heavier rapeseed/olive oil. As you whisk you will see and feel the sauce thicken and the sauce will absorb the oil faster.
Keep refrigerated and use within a few days. Add herbs .. or not.
French-Style potato salad as opposed to one that’s dressed in mayonnaise or soured cream. I did play about with calling it ‘Herby Potato Salad’ because there are a lot of herbs, but the vinaigrette dressing swung it. In my house, this is just called ‘Potato Salad’. It’s my default setting for any summertime barbecue and I love it – not least because it’ll sit in the sunshine without coming to any harm.
You know how chefs say they go to the market and look for what’s fresh and their imaginations start buzzing with ideas of what they’ll create .. well, it wasn’t quite like that. I went to the supermarket and there was a trolley full of reduced Jersey Royal potatoes .. and I immediately thought, ‘Good, potato salad’.
Does that count??? It’s certainly the way I cook.
Jersey Royals are usually expensive and have EU protected status. The reason is not the type of potato but the growing conditions. They’re been grown on the island of Jersey since 1880 and are planted on the steep south facing coastal slopes in well-drained and nutrient-rich soil. Vraic, which is the dialect word for the locally collected seaweed, is used as a fertiliser and the steep slopes mean much of the crop has to be harvested by hand.
99% of the harvest ends up on the UK mainland, the rest the islanders eat themselves. This late in their season they’re getting larger than the ones that appear in May. Best are the ones with mud clinging to them – but I’m grateful for my bargain.
With a Jersey Royal it’s skin-on. Always. The skins are paper thin and all the nutrients are just beneath it. I’m inclined to do that with all small waxy potatoes. I’m going to sell it on the grounds of health, but I hate scraping potatoes. Give them a good wash and, for preference, steam rather than boil. Conventionally, it takes about 20 minutes. Aga – bring to the boil in cold salted water. Give it a couple of minutes on the boiling plate and then drain completely of water. Replace the lid and pop into the simmering oven for 30 minutes.
You are looking for ‘tender at the point of a knife’.
Then cover the saucepan with a clean tea-towel, replace the lid and let it steam dry for a further five minutes.
Hopefully, they’re now dry and cool enough to handle. Cut into bite sized pieces. Smaller ones I cut in half, the larger potatoes into four.
Place them in a bowl and pour over a glug of white wine. Most recipes that call for that will tell you to use what’s left in a bottle. Who are these people? Nigel and I would finish the bottle! So, whenever I open a bottle, I take a little bit off the top and freeze it. Useful for making a risotto, too, and probably better for us to consume a little less alcohol. If you don’t drink alcohol, you could miss this stage out completely or use a little bit of chicken stock.
Give it all a stir and then cover with plastic wrap. The potatoes will soak up the wine.
Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette. It can be as simple or as complicated as you like. Considering the quantity of fresh herbs I’m about to include, I keep it really simple. One part good quality white wine vinegar with three parts good olive oil. I do spend money on the ingredients for a dressing because they have nowhere to hide. In this case I actually didn’t use olive oil but a cold pressed rapeseed oil.
Then, I added a blob of Dijon Mustard, salt and pepper. Give everything a shake and taste. Now’s the time to make any adjustments. If you don’t use all of it in this potato salad it’s a lovely dressing on a green salad and will keep happily in the fridge for a few days.
The herbs are the stars of the salad. Parsley – flat leaf or curly. I can’t see that it matters.
Basil.
The easiest way to chop basil is to pile the basil leaves up and roll into a cigar. Then chop with the sharp knife. If you have any green sludge on your board it’s because your knife is too blunt and you are bruising the herbs rather than chopping them.
And that’s a chiffonade.
I served this potato salad with salmon which made dill an obvious choice. In fact, any ‘soft’ herb is lovely and when my herb bed is really flourishing I have fun.
I like the tang of spring onions and chop both the white and green parts. When Seb is home from uni I often omit them and use chives in their place. Of course, in the interests of honesty, I should mention I get fed up with accommodating his preferences and will revert to spring onions when he’s been home a few weeks. (You might like to remind yourself of my problem when making cottage pie.) Finely chopped shallots are also lovely.
By now the potatoes will have sucked up the alcohol. Add as much of the vinaigrette as you need to coat everything, but not so much as you have a pool of it at the bottom of the serving dish. Then add the herbs and the spring onions.
If you want to keep this in the fridge, do bring it to room temperature again before you serve it.
Eat.
French-Style Potato Salad
Serves 8 generously
1.5kg/3lb waxy potatoes
50ml/2 fl oz white wine
50ml/2 fl oz white wine vinegar
150ml/6 fl oz good olive oil or cold pressed rapeseed oil
1 tsp Dijon Mustard
1 tsp of salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
8 spring onions, both the white and green parts, chopped
3 generous tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley
3 generous tablespoons of chopped basil
3 generous tablespoons of chopped fresh dill
Thoroughly scrub the potatoes to get rid of any dirt and steam until they are ‘tender at the point of a knife’. Cover with a clean tea-towel, replace the lid, and allow to steam for 5-10 minutes longer.
Cut into bite sized pieces and place in a shallow bowl. Add the white wine and give everything a gentle stir. Cover with plastic wrap and allow the potato to absorb the wine.
Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette. I like to use a parfait jar or empty jam jar. It’s one part white wine vinegar to three parts oil if you like to do it by eye. Otherwise, 50ml/2fl oz of white wine vinegar in the bottom of the jar. Add 150ml/6 fl oz of good quality olive oil or cold pressed rapeseed oil. Add 1 tsp of Dijon Mustard. A teaspoon of sea salt and ½ teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper. Replace the lid on your jar and give everything a shake. Taste. You can add more seasoning, more vinegar …
Chop your choice of soft herbs. Parsley, basil and dill are easy to buy and are my default selection.
Remove the plastic wrap and add enough of the dressing to coat the potatoes. Then the herbs. 3 generous tablespoons of each. Give everything a gentle stir and serve at room temperature.
Salmon and Watercress Quiche with Pink Peppercorns
Salmon, watercress and new potatoes brought together in perfect harmony. I love this quiche.
I admit I’m wistfully clinging to memories of fine weather here – because I do think this is a perfect lunch for a bright Spring day when the sky is cornflower blue, the clouds a collection of fluffy cotton wool balls and I’ve yet to suffer the disappointment that, yet again, I have failed to water my hanging baskets effectively.
In actuality, it’s been a wet week and if there’s much more rainfall I’ll have to bring out my high heeled, wedged wellington boots. (Yes, I know what you’re thinking – urban creature to the core.)
The English watercress season is coming to an end (it peaks in the Spring and then again in the Autumn) and it seemed wrong to ignore the bunches at the market this week. Besides which, it’s a wonder food. It’s rich in vitamins A and C, iron, calcium, magnesium and folic acid. So that goes some way to balancing out the double cream …, doesn’t it? Besides which, Sir Francis Bacon (1561-1626) who was generally thought of as a man of great ability claimed it could restore a youthful bloom to women. Which settles it. A ‘must buy’ ingredient.
This recipe I found in a lovely book called ‘The Higgidy Cookbook’ by Camilla Stephens. I’m an inveterate ‘tinkerer’ with recipes, but this I’ve left alone. I think it’s beautifully balanced and, bar halving the amount of dill because Jem prefers it that way, it is as it ever was.
Begin with the pastry. Even though this pastry is slightly ‘richer’ than the one I used in my Lemon Meringue Pie, the cardinal rules remain the same. The first being, don’t over-handle it. The second, don’t skip the chilling.
Sift your flour and salt into a large bowl. Then add the fat, cut into smallish cubes. Here I’m using all butter. It shouldn’t be soft, which would make your pastry difficult to work with, but it needn’t be fridge hard either. There’s a ‘sweet’ point between minimal handling and keeping everything cool. (If you don’t mind washing up, which I do, a food processor is a perfectly acceptable option. Flour, butter and cheese in the processor and pulse until the mixture resembles ‘breadcrumbs’ before adding the egg/water liquid. Bring together to form a dough, and wrap in cling film to chill.)
For my boys, here’s the science – what you’re actually doing by ‘rubbing in’ is coating tiny bits of flour with fat – before you add any liquid. It’s a raincoat! The idea is to stop liquid penetrating the flour. Liquid + flour = gluten proteins. And gluten proteins give you tough pastry which you’d prefer not to eat.
Clean hands, not cold. (There’s no need to run your hands under a freezing tap or concern yourself as to whether you’re a cold heart, warm hands kind of person. Anyone can make pastry.) Butter cut into smallish cubes, at a squeezable temperature.
Stop when it resembles breadcrumbs – ish. There will still be little lumps of fat, but that doesn’t matter. You’ll get far better results if you don’t ‘over-work’ it.
Now add the finely grated parmesan cheese and combine with a blunt knife. Besides adding a savoury note to your pastry, this cheese will give it a lovely colour when it’s baked.
An egg yolk to bind and add richness. Loosen the egg yolk with 3 tablespoons of cold water and add gradually. Using your knife, bring it together.
Gather it together into a ball. Dough gathers dough so use it to collect any stray bits until the sides of the bowl are clean. Lightly knead on your worktop. The intention is to have a smooth dough which is completely free of any cracks.
-If you’ve made a mistake with the egg yolk/water mix and the pastry is crumbling beneath your fingers – run your hands under the cold tap and lightly knead in the water on your hands.
-If it’s too wet you’ll have to sprinkle flour on your worktop. Go careful because you are altering the fat/flour ratio.
Form it into a flat disc and wrap in plastic cling. The flat is important. If you chill it as a ball the outside will come back to room temperature much quicker than the centre and you’ll struggle to roll it later. Put it in the fridge. Chill for a minimum of 30 minutes.
Longer is absolutely fine …
I melt butter. My mum, you may remember, used old butter wrappers. Either way, make a good job of this. It’s so annoying if you can’t get a quiche out of the tin! I’m using a loose-bottomed fluted rectangular tart tin, 30cm x 20cm (Silverwood).
While the pastry is resting, it’s time to get the filling ready. Since you want it cool before you add it to your pastry case it makes sense to crack on.
Pre-heat the oven to 200ºC/Gas Mark 6
Finely slice an onion. Mine were particularly small, so I used three. Common sense here. I like onion, but it’s your tart.
Melt a knob of butter in a frying pan and, over a low heat, soften for about 10 minutes. (Aga: Melt the butter on the Boiling Plate, add the onion, stir and pop into your simmering oven for 20 minutes or so.)
Small, waxy, peeled salad potatoes – cooked until just tender to a knife point. Then cut into 1.5cm/1″ chunks. (Aga: Bring to the boil in salted water, drain completely and place in the simmering oven.)
Place your salmon fillets on a large sheet of foil and add lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Wrap, taking care to fold the edges over all the juices are kept inside and the fish can steam. (Aga: bottom runners of Roasting Oven.)
12 minutes later, it’s ready and looks like this.
Prepare the watercress by picking off the leaves and discarding the stalks. Chop finely. Add finely chopped dill, to taste.
By now your pastry will have chilled sufficiently and you can line the tin. I roll my pastry between two sheets of cling film, but if you prefer you can roll on a lightly floured surface and flip your pastry over a rolling pin to transfer to the prepared tin or slide the base of the tin under the rolled out pastry, lightly flip the edges inwards and lift into the tin before flipping the edges back. You are aiming for a 3mm/an eighth of an inch. (Why isn’t there a little symbol for that???)
Pass the rolling pin across the top of the flan tin to trim the excess pastry. Push into the sides and I always bring it slightly above the top rim as an insurance against any shrinkage.
Prick the base with a fork and return it all to the fridge for that all-important chilling.
(This is the obvious time for a cup of tea.)
When the chilling time is up, take the pastry lined flan tin from the fridge and bake ‘blind’. (Line the pastry case with baking parchment and pour in your baking beans. Use a generous amount as they provide support to the sides and weigh down the base so it doesn’t puff up.) Bake for 20 minutes. (Aga: There is no need to blind bake.)
Then lift out the baking parchment and beans and return the pastry case to the oven for a further 5 minutes. You want the pastry to be ‘dry’ before adding the quiche filling. (If you find you have any cracks you can use some of the off cut raw pastry to patch them up. Brush the repair job bits with beaten egg before returning to the oven for those last 5 minutes.)
Leave the pastry to cool and reduce your oven temperature to 180ºC/Gas Mark 4.
Lay the cooked and cooled onions across the base.
Then the par-boiled potatoes.
Flake the salmon and arrange on top of the potatoes.
Scatter over most of the watercress and dill.
Whisk together the cream and the eggs. Season with salt.
Pour into the pastry case and then scatter over the remaining watercress and dill. Finally top with lightly crushed pink peppercorns.
Bake for 30 minutes until the filling has just set.
Leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes and then remove. A can of cannelloni beans did the job for the sides.
Slide the base of a large quiche tin or cake lifter between the base and the pastry. Place on your serving platter.
Eat.
Salmon and Watercress Quiche with Pink Peppercorns – Serves 6
(From a lovely recipe book by Camilla Stephens ‘The Higgidy Cookbook’.)
For the Savoury Shortcrust Pastry:
200g/7oz plain flour
A generous pinch of salt
100g/3½oz unsalted butter
30g/1oz Parmesan Cheese, grated
1 medium egg yolk, beaten
About 3 tablespoons of ice-cold water
For the filling:
3 salmon fillets (approximately 350g)
Tablespoon of lemon juice
Knob of unsalted butter
1 medium onion, finely sliced
200g/7½oz new potatoes, par-boiled and cut into 1.5/1″ chunks
50g watercress (leaves picked off and the thick stalks thrown away), finely chopped
2 tablespoons of fresh dill, finely chopped
3 medium eggs, beaten
300ml double cream
½ teaspoon of pink peppercorns, lightly crushed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sift the flour and salt together. Add the butter cubes and ‘rub together’ until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the finely grated parmesan cheese.
Sprinkle over the beaten egg yolk and water. With a blunt knife, mix together until the pastry begins to come together. Use your hands to gather the final bits and then knead lightly on your work surface to ensure your pastry is smooth. Flatten to a disc, wrap in cling film and pop into the fridge to chill.
Pre-heat the oven to 200ºC/Gas Mark 5/400ºF and put in a baking sheet to heat up.
Melt a knob of butter in a frying pan over a medium heat and soften the finely sliced onion. After about 8 minutes, transfer the onion to a bowl to cool.
Par-boil the new potatoes until soft to the point of a knife but with a little resistance. Cut into 1.5cm/1″ chunks and transfer to a bowl to cool.
Place the salmon fillets onto a large sheet of foil placed on a baking tray. Sprinkle over the lemon juice and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pull the sides up and scrunch the joins together to make a neat parcel. Place in the oven and bake for 12 minutes. Once cooked, unwrap and put to one side to cool.
Finely chop the watercress and dill.
Prepare a loose-bottomed rectangular flan tin, 30cm x 20cm, by brushing with melted butter.
Once the pastry has chilled, roll to a 3mm thickness and transfer to the tart tin. Pass a rolling pin across the top of the tin to remove the excess pastry and push the pastry against the sides to give a neat finish. Let the pastry stand a little proud of the rim. Prink the base with a fork and return to the fridge for a second 30 minutes.
Once chilled, remove the uncooked pastry case from the fridge. Scrunch up a sheet of baking parchment and line the flan tin, filling with baking beans. Place on the hot baking tray in the oven and bake for 20 minutes.
Take the flan out and remove the paper and baking beans. Return the flan to the oven for a final 5 minutes. Leave to cool.
Reduce the oven temperature to 180ºC/Gas Mark 4/350ºF.
When you are ready to bake, scatter the cooled and cooked onions evenly over the base. Follow that with the potatoes. Then, thickly flake the salmon and discard the skin. Evenly scatter the salmon over the potatoes. Next the chopped watercress and dill, leaving a little to sprinkle on the top.
Whisk together the cream and the eggs. Season with salt and pour into the pastry case. Sprinkle over the remaining watercress and dill. Finally, scatter with pink peppercorns.
Place on the hot baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes until the filling has just set and the top is turning golden.
(Aga: There is no need to blind bake your pastry case. After the second chill, arrange the cooled filling and cook on the floor of the roasting oven. Check after 20 minutes. If the top is browning too quickly and the pastry isn’t cooked, slide a cold baking sheet above it to provide a heat shield.)
